How to Identify a Gunpla Kit Edition and Track a Build Accurately
An edition-first workflow for avoiding MG/RG/HG mix-ups, checking runner and manual details, recording missing parts and building a useful inventory.
Why the exact kit name matters more than a search result
A design such as RX-78-2, Sazabi or Sinanju may have multiple plastic-model releases with overlapping names. An image search often shows versions from different scales or generations. If you catalogue only 'Gundam Sinanju', you may later attach a review, price or instruction manual for the wrong box. The safer approach starts with the grade, named version and product evidence printed on your kit.
Use this workflow whether a kit is sealed, partially assembled, on your wishlist or missing a polycap. The goal is a consistent record you can verify again later, not a pretend valuation.
Step 1: Identify the complete release name
- Record the manufacturer and product line as printed, such as HG, HGUC, RG, MG or PG. Some releases use additional line labels; copy them exactly when they matter.
- Write the full model and release suffix, including Ver. Ka, Ver. 2.0, Narrative Ver., Full Mechanics or a numbered expansion. These suffixes can distinguish different products.
- Record the nominal scale independently. Grade and scale are different fields: RG and many HG kits are both 1/144, but they are not the same assembly system.
- Record visible box identifiers or product numbers and the barcode from the actual box. A shop listing title is not the same as a verified printed identifier.
- If the box is missing, mark the kit's edition as probable rather than certain until its manual and parts can be compared.
A compact record might be: manufacturer Bandai Spirits; grade RG; model RX-78-2 Gundam; edition Ver. 2.0; scale 1/144; condition unbuilt; barcode not recorded; source box and manual. These labels illustrate how to separate fields—do not infer that a random photo proves the edition.
Step 2: Use the manual and runner layout as evidence
Bandai's official web-manual service lets users look up available kit instructions by title or identifiers. It does not cover every product, so a missing search result does not imply a kit is fake. If the printed manual is present, photograph the cover and parts list. For uncertain parts, compare runner letter, part number and shape instead of relying on a generic 'ankle polycap' description.
The parts list is especially useful for donated or second-hand kits. Record the exact letter and number of an absent piece, such as 'runner PC, item 5', and note the source manual revision. This is more actionable than 'missing foot part'. A runner letter may repeat across different kits; never assume PC5 from one kit fits another without checking dimensions and compatibility.
Step 3: Match the review to the kit, not the other way around
When reading Dalong reviews or community photos, confirm that the title and grade match your printed box. Distinguish HG Barbatos Lupus, HG Barbatos Lupus Rex, MG Barbatos and any Full Mechanics release. A photograph of the same mobile suit design is not evidence that the parts, accessories or articulation are identical.
Use original review pages for additional photographs and assembly context. If Graildex cannot verify a matching review URL or reuse permission for a photograph, it should link to the source rather than display a guessed model photo. Compare the edition suffix before putting a review's pros and cons into your personal note.
Step 4: Record a build timeline that is actually useful
- Unbuilt: inventory the box, manual, decals, runners and known missing parts.
- In progress: record the current assembly stage (torso, arms, legs, backpack, weapons) and remaining tasks.
- Built: note modifications, paints, decals, joints that need attention, and whether accessories are stored separately.
- Displayed: record the shelf or storage location, optional support stand and any limitations caused by height or depth.
- Wishlist: record the exact edition you intend to buy and why it differs from similar kits you already own.
Instead of a fake precise 'average build time', capture your own sessions if that information matters. For example, three 45-minute sessions is an observed personal total of 2 hours 15 minutes; it does not predict the time another builder will need.
Step 5: Separate cost, condition and current asking prices
A purchase record should store amount paid, currency, date, seller and shipping or tax if known. If you bought a kit in Canadian dollars, don't overwrite the historical purchase cost every time a live marketplace listing changes. Keep estimated replacement or market values in a separate, labelled field with a source and last-checked date.
For partially built or modified kits, a sealed-box listing usually is not directly comparable. Describe your copy's actual condition: sealed, open-box complete, unbuilt with missing runner, partly assembled, painted, displayed, or sold. Avoid applying a box-new estimate to a used build without clear adjustment and supporting evidence.
Step 6: Create a repeatable photo set
Photograph the box face and product identifier, manual front, runner/parts list if important, and the finished kit from front and back. If you are sharing a collection publicly, decide which personal information to remove from labels or receipts. Use original photographs when possible and don't automatically borrow another site's images just because they appear in search results.
For a large collection, an inventory ID such as KIT-0128 can link photographs to the correct record. Put identical-design variants on separate records, not one entry with multiple contradictory grade labels.
Step 7: Keep uncertainty explicit
Useful tags include Verified from box, Verified from manual, Probable from photos, Missing part and Price estimate. They are editorial suggestions for personal notes, not claims that Graildex already offers a built-in verification badge for every item.
If you cannot read a barcode or find the manual, leave the affected field blank and write what you tried. If an aftermarket listing calls a kit 'MG' but the box shows 'Full Mechanics', trust the printed product line rather than the seller's shorthand.
Ready-to-use eight-field mini checklist
- Exact box title, grade and edition suffix.
- Scale and manufacturer.
- Barcode or printed product identifier (if visible).
- Box/manual condition and runner completeness.
- Build status and outstanding tasks.
- Owned accessories, decals and missing part IDs.
- Price paid, currency, seller and date.
- Links to manufacturer/manual/review sources, photo set and confidence notes.
These eight groups are enough for a useful first pass, and you can add details later without turning your collection into a research project.
Scope and limitations
This is an original Graildex workflow that combines documentation habits with official kit-manual lookup. It does not guarantee every manufacturer release, assembly variation or part interchangeability. Check the specific printed instructions before replacing mechanical parts and use official documentation to resolve ambiguous models.
Sources and further reading
Reference material used for this guide. External sources are cited to help readers verify relevant details; the practical checklists are Graildex editorial guidance, not a claim of personally testing every product or method.