Gunpla Grades Explained: HG, RG, MG, and PG Comparison

Which Gunpla grade should you buy first?

If you are buying your first Gundam model, start by choosing the experience you want rather than chasing the most expensive grade. High Grade (HG) is a sensible first full kit for many beginners; Entry Grade (EG) is even simpler if you want a low-commitment introduction. Try Real Grade (RG) when you enjoy detailed, small-part assembly. Choose Master Grade (MG) when you want a larger model and more room to work with individual parts. Perfect Grade (PG) is a substantial display project, not a required graduation step.

Grade names describe Bandai product families. Scale is not the same thing as difficulty. HG and RG are commonly both 1/144; their assembled sizes can be similar even though their construction experiences are different. These are general comparisons, not promises about every release.

Four main grades, explained

High Grade (HG): variety without an overwhelming build

Typical scale: 1/144. HG kits tend to balance recognizable details, posing options, and manageable assembly. Many modern kits have good colour separation, but the number of stickers, visible seams, and range of motion vary widely by release.

• What you handle: A relatively straightforward set of armour, joints, and accessories; some HG kits have more complex inner structures than others.
• Best use: Starting a collection, trying a new mobile suit design, or learning to clean up runner marks and pose a finished kit.
• Watch out for: Assuming every HG has identical articulation or needs the same tools. Look up the exact kit before buying.

Real Grade (RG): more intricate detail at a small scale

Typical scale: 1/144. RG uses layered colour separation, dense surface detailing and more intricate articulation than a typical HG. Its smaller components demand patience and a clean work area. Some earlier RG releases use pre-moulded articulated frame assemblies; later kits often use more separately assembled structures. The frame design should be checked per kit, not assumed from the grade alone.

• What you handle: Smaller joints, detailed panels, multiple armour layers, and often many small markings or decals.
• Best use: A builder who has enjoyed an HG and wants more assembly detail without dedicating much more shelf space.
• Watch out for: Tiny connectors, intricate armatures, and decals that are easier to lose during assembly. Do not force tight joints.

Master Grade (MG): larger parts and a more involved build

Typical scale: 1/100. MG kits generally put internal mechanics and more articulated structures at the centre of the experience. The larger scale makes many individual parts easier to grip than an RG, although the overall project usually includes more assembly steps and needs more storage and display space.

• What you handle: A detailed inner structure, layered armour and accessories; specific gimmicks vary by release.
• Best use: Collectors who want a larger display model or enjoy seeing the mechanical structure take shape.
• Watch out for: Assuming all MG kits contain pilot figures, metal parts, moving pistons, or water-slide decals. Check the actual product listing.

Perfect Grade (PG): a large, deliberate project

Typical scale: 1/60. PG models generally emphasize large size, intricate detail, and complex engineering. They occupy significantly more space and usually involve a larger financial commitment.

• What you handle: Many subassemblies, mechanical details, large outer panels, and kit-specific display or lighting features.
• Best use: A dedicated build project where you already have enough space, time, and experience to organize the parts.
• Watch out for: Assuming every PG includes metal components or LEDs. Some lighting systems are optional accessories and must be checked separately.

A practical buying decision

If you have never built a kit

Look for an EG or a modern HG of a mobile suit you genuinely like. Check the box for grade and scale, and search the exact product name in Bandai's manual database. Prepare a flat, well-lit work surface and a small container for loose pieces. The simpler the kit, the easier it is to learn how to read runner labels and follow the assembly order.

If you want something detailed but have limited shelf space

Compare an HG and an RG of the same mobile suit at 1/144. That isolates the build difference from the design difference: RG will usually provide more detailed mechanical assembly while taking roughly the same display footprint. Look for photos of the specific two kits rather than trusting the grade label alone.

If you want a centrepiece without the smallest parts

Consider MG at 1/100. Verify the finished dimensions, available shelf depth and the exact accessories included. A larger scale does not automatically mean more difficult assembly than a detail-heavy RG.

If you are considering an expensive PG

Check both the total cost and the practical requirements: a stable display area, storage for extra runners, and whether optional effects or lighting need separate purchases. Buy the exact model because you want to build it, not because PG sounds like the only 'advanced' grade.

What the scale actually tells you

A scale of 1/144 means one unit on the model represents 144 of the same units on the fictional full-size machine. Roughly speaking, an 18-metre mobile suit would be about 12.5 centimetres tall at 1/144, 18 centimetres at 1/100, and 30 centimetres at 1/60. Real finished heights vary: different Gundams have different fictional sizes, and weapons or backpacks can dramatically alter shelf space.

What to inspect before buying

• Exact product name and release: A Ver. 2.0, Ver. Ka, special colour, or later reissue might not have the same engineering as a similarly named older kit.
• Included parts: Do not infer LED units, effect parts, decals, or stands from promotional photos. Read the product description and manual.
• Display dimensions: Account for weapons, wings, and a base, not just the robot's height.
• Total delivered price: Compare the kit plus shipping and tax, especially when buying in Canada. Limited editions can cost more without being better starting kits.
• Your build goals: Straight-from-the-box display, panel lining, painting, and customization all affect which kit is a good choice.

Common beginner mistakes

'A higher grade always means a better kit'

Not necessarily. Grade describes a line with a typical construction philosophy, not a review score. A recent HG can have excellent design while an older RG or MG may have particular quirks. Judge the specific release.

'All RG kits use the same skeleton'

RG frame systems have changed over time. Do not assume the same joints, materials, or assembly methods across all RG releases. Verify the model manual and independent build notes where possible.

'Build time is fixed for each grade'

There is no trustworthy universal hour count. Familiarity, assembly pace, sanding, decals, panel lining, and painting can all change the time needed. Plan for an enjoyable project rather than a deadline.

Research notes and limitations

This guide compares typical product-line characteristics, not firsthand testing of every kit. The manufacturer sources below provide grade definitions and a searchable manual library for checking the exact kit before purchase. Kit-specific advice should be updated when new releases or revised designs appear. Graildex is independent and is not affiliated with Bandai.

Source checklist

• Bandai Hobby online catalog: Brand descriptions for HG, RG, MG, and PG.
• Bandai Hobby manual database: Search by exact kit name, scale, and product line.
• Bandai Hobby RG reference: Official examples of RG products and their 1/144 scale.